"What a wonderful life I've had! I only wish I'd realized it sooner." Colette

Sep 27, 2024

Delos

Delos was a side trip during our Mykonos stop with the ship, Celestyal Journey.  Part of UNESCO's World Heritage List, it's only 1.3 square miles (3.4 sq. km) in area.  If I'd ever heard of it, I'd forgotten; but it sounded like a nice excursion, and it was. Photo is of the House of Kleopatra, not the Egyptian one but from a wealthy Athenian family.  The small entrance/gift shop is in the background.  From A Tour of the Archaeological Site of Delos, a handout at the entrance:

"The island's importance grew due to its being centrally located on the sea route between the Greek mainland and Asia; and because of its excellent harbours, protected by the islands of the Cyclades.

"Delos must raise some astonishment when one compares its size to its history. Although a small, rocky island no more than 5km long, for ancient Greeks it was the most sacred place, because Apollo and Artemis, two of the most important deities of the Greek pantheon, were born there.

"Early inhabitants (2500 BCE) lived on top of the low hill Kynthos, from where they could easily inspect the sea for enemies.  The Mycenaeans (15th cent. BCE) felt confident enough to settle in the small valley by the sea."

Here's a fun story:

"According to Greek mythology, Delos used to be an invisible rock floating in the Aegean, not belonging to the physical world.  When female Titan Leto got pregnant by Zeus, his wife Hera decided to ban Leto from all earthen places so she could not give birth to her children. Leto wandered the Aegean, trying to find a place where she would be protected. Zeus pleaded with his brother, Poseidon to tie down Delos so Leto could deliver twins Apollo (god of light, music and poetry) and Artemis (goddess of wild animals, hunting and chastity)."

Here's more 'earthly' history (photo of the market area):

"In 167 BCE Delos was declared a free port, which increased its prosperity and brought many foreigners to the city. Delos was used by multi-ethnic merchants trading in numerous goods. It was also a major centre for the sale of slaves, with thousands of slaves being traded daily.

"The prosperity of the island and the friendly relations with the Romans were the main cause of its destruction.  Things changed in 88 BCE when Delos was sacked and looted by Mithridates, King of Pontus (?), during his war against Rome

"This assault resulted in the entire population, around 20,000, either being killed or sold into slavery, and the city being razed to the ground. It was partially rebuilt by the Romans but in 69 BCE it was once again attacked, this time by pirates, after which Delos fell into decline and was eventually abandoned."

Here's some odd trivia:  "Because of Delos' importance as a sacred religious centre, no mortal births or deaths were allowed to take place there.  Anyone at risk of either was taken to the nearby island of Rinia."


Structures were quarried for building material by the Venetians and Turks in the European Middle Ages.  This practice continued, so that now visitors are no longer permitted to stay overnight, and private boats must moor no closer than 500 meters, in case any cruisers are reading.

24-hour security guards keep history safe, aided by lots of cats, who cut down on the snake and rodent population.  Visitors are asked not to feed them and spoil their incentives.

Speaking of cats, here's a sight you might recognize, called the Terrace of the Lions.  The original row of up to 12 stone lions was built around 600 BC by the people of Naxos in honor of the god Apollo.  These are marble replicas; the originals are protected in a museum.


The lions are facing east towards the Sacred Lake of Delos, where Greek scholars of the time believed Apollo had been born.

Excavations began in 1872 and are still in progress, with archaeologists living in simple quarters on site (l).

"The Delian League was a confederacy of Greek city-states, numbering between 150 and 330, founded in 478 BC under the leadership of Athens, whose purpose was to continue fighting the Persian Empire."  Strength in numbers...it was a big deal.

(R) Detail of Porinos Naos (I think); original treasury of the Delian League before being moved to the Parthenon.  At the time I didn't know what was what, but took pictures of anything taller than knee-high.

Our group followed the guide like ducklings, weaving through ancient streets and peeking in to the ruins of the Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous at the time.  Mosaic floors, frescoed walls, good drainage.

This is known as the House of Dionysus because of the floor mosaic, Dionysus riding a tiger.  This would have been the inner courtyard, like you've seen in movies.
I wondered about the significance of tigers in ancient Greece, and here's what AI offered up:
The god Dionysus: The god of wine, fertility, and festivity, Dionysus was often depicted riding a tiger. 
Tiger's Eye:  The Greeks used Tiger's Eye in jewelry to strengthen their senses and for protection. 
Alexander the Great:  In 326 BC, Indian ambassadors presented tamed tigers to Alexander the Great. 

The first two seem plausabie and the last is apparently true, for I further read that this was the first time Europeans were introduced to tigers.

Our final stop was at the theater, where we rested our buns on stone seats while our guide described what it used to look like.  The first few rows, where we sat, were rounded and once reserved for the rich folk; while the rest were just slabs.  Bunch of rocks with a bunch of grass, I'm afraid I'm not appreciative!

Next up:  Mykonos
From the beginning:  Athens and the Acropolis

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