Athens and the Acropolis

Aah...Greece.  The Parthenon, Gyros and good-looking men - particularly the young ones.  I've been told they're a bit Macho, but I've not met many men who don't have a touch of Macho in 'em.  Lots of women, too, I include myself.  Besides, doesn't cost to look.

I can't get my math straight, but my total flying time was about 19 hours and the time difference is 10 hours.  I flew from Portland to Chicago to Zurich to Athens, thank God I didn't have to race through any of the airports with my wheelless carry-on.  Because of my midnight return flight, I opted to rent bookend rooms near the airport with on-site parking and 24 hour shuttle service, definitely worth it for the peace of mind.

During the longest leg (Chicago to Zurich, 10 hours), my area was empty, as you see.  I couldn't believe my luck; imagining a quiet, roomy ride, maybe even extra food.  Woulda been perfect if not for the colicky baby in the section behind me, whose mother walked up and down the aisles to be certain we all shared her misery. I'd never actually experienced a baby crying for hours upon hours; and when it temporarily stopped, another one in the front of my section started up.

They kept tag-teaming despite my grumblings; and Amy, who rarely emerges these days, was threatening to blow.  So I called over the Stewardess before (we) did something requiring an Air Marshal.

"You should have a (soundproof) section just for screaming babies. I paid extra to choose this seat."

I hoped for something for my discomfort - at least a free drink, like the old days.  [Photos, top to bottom: rustic features of the Archaic period (500 BC) became more realistic in the Classical period (200BC)].

She offered some earplugs, but I'd already tried mine. She listened patiently, corrected my 'extra fee' interpretation and prempted her departure with the remark, "This isn't so bad."

At the Athens airport, I missed by an hour the shuttle to the hotel with the Reno crowd...WAIT, I never explained how I managed to be on this trip, and with who:

In a nutshell, my good friends from Nevada (seated, front row right) founded the non-profit Toccata Symphony Orchestra & Chorus almost 20 years ago.  They've organized European tours every couple years for interested members, patrons and guests, where they sight-see and perform along the way.

This year's trip was Athens and a cruise through the Aegean, and Nancy asked if I'd like to go along.  People were flying in from all over and meeting up at the hotel.  The picture above was taken on the rooftop of the Stanley Hotel, I added the red arrow.  I didn't really know anyone other than James and Nancy, but casually met some of the musicians over the years when I helped out at Toccata's concerts.

Despite studying, "Learn to Read Greek in 5 Days," I couldn't understand a thing as I zipped through the airport.  I caught a taxi with Nico, a nice guy who tried to teach me some Greek as he skilfully navigated the half-hour drive through rush-hour Athens.  The windows were open and it was warm but not stifling at 4 pm.  I stared out the windows at 3-and-4-story apartments and shops, all with balconies and most with awnings.  The sun was bright, the sky clear and the temperature comfortable.  "It's nice out today," I observed.

"It's ALWAYS like this," Nico laughed.  Turns out we experienced warmer than average temperatures throughout the trip: in the low-to-high 70's, interrupted only once by a brief deluge.  Good thing I decided not to pack my travel umbrella, for I overpacked as it was; but I wasn't the only one to claim, "I brought the wrong clothes - it was supposed to be colder!"

"We're here," Nico announced, "and there's the Acropolis."

Wow.  An amazing site above the sprawl of Athens; you just stand in the street and stare.  A Welcome Buffet for the group had already begun, and despite 20+ hours traveling with little sleep, I was pumped and ready to go. 

As I sipped my Mocktail on the rooftop balcony I tried to remember stories of Greek Gods and Myths we were taught in school, I loved those. Aunt Cathy, who was Greek, would have been tickled.  (Photo: a recreation of the Parthenon's former pediment, in the Acropolis Museum.  Zeus is in the center; with Athena, who sprang fully grown from his head, to the right)

The pool area looked like photos you see in ads, but I wouldn't have time to stick my toes in, not that I was interested in squeezing into a suit.  But sipping something yummy in a lounge chair woulda been nice.

Karaiskaki Square, Athens

Organized vacations aren't really my cup-of-tea, but I figured the chances of me decided to up and head for something like this were nill, since I'm more of a 'fly,-rent-a-car and take my chances' gal.  For that reason I signed up for an excursion each day we stopped at a new island.

Only problem was I was out of shape.  I had a hard time walking around the RV park without huffing and puffing...how could I possibly climb to the top of the Acropolis? For months I tried to maintain an exercise routine, either walking around the park or on the treadmill in the gym; until the week before I left I threw up my hands and figured I'll either make it or I won't. A travel walking stick for short people saved me.

So after breakfast our second day, we jumped on pre-determined buses and headed for the Acropolis.  In early April, high season had not yet arrived.  I've said I haven't travelled overseas in 30 years, and off-season crowds were nowhere near this large.  I couldn't imagine the middle of summer - all those people under a hot sun?  No, thanks.

To control the number of people entering the Acropolis at one time, our busloads were divided into three tour groups:  Musicians; those requiring Extra Assistance; and Friends and Others, my group.  After inquiring about the Acropolis elevators I hoped to be in the Extra Assistance, but no.

I was half-listening while fidgiting with my camera settings and likely missed a lot, but it was hard for me to concentrate.  Too much stimuli at one time for my brain. (Photo note:  see how they're filling in missing pieces, which will eventually weather like the rest of the marble.  They're hoping restoration will be finished in 15-20 years; our guide joked 40.)

Which led to me losing my entire group.  

Black shirts with logos were distributed at the buffet the night before, but no one in my group wore one.  I began to panic and searched for Judi's huge-brimmed hat; so I stopped, took a bad selfie and admired a beautiful structure not far away but which I was missing because I didn't want to further delay my catching up.

The Temple of Athena sits off to the side of the main tourist trail.  My parents frequently took my sister and me to NYC museums, all kinds; and my favorite was always the Museum of Natural History.

And here I was, literally in the footsteps of one of the greatest civilizations ever...but all I could do was concentrate on NOT panicking while navigating uneven ground.  Logically I knew they wouldn't leave me behind, but for whatever deep-seated reasons in my past makes that feeling a recurring fear, I didn't want to cause a fuss and willed myself not to cry.

Eventually I bumped into the Musicians group, some in their black shirts, posing for an impromptu photograph.  I'm sure my group hasn't passed them, so I must be ahead of them. They were probably learning about the Temple of Athena, oh well.

Group #1's guide, while explaining a significant event, recognized a stranger amongst her flock; and despite my protests that I'd stay put until Friends and Others arrived, she insisted on contacting MY guide (L) via radio; and waited with me until we saw his hand waving in the distance, very embarassing.  I felt like I was lost at a mall.  But while waiting I did learn about the Greek Flag on the tower, in a nutshell:

On May 30th, 1941, two teenagers crept through an ancient passageway they learned about from reading text books and scaled the Acropolis to tear down the Swastika flag, one of the first acts of resistance against occupying forces.

It's a good thing we were pretty much through the Acropolis, for the rest of the trip down from the mount, I stuck close to my newfound friends like a puppy. I didn't take as many pictures.

This is the Theater of Dinoysus, the world's first theater, built in the 6th century BC.  I was struck by the contrast with the city, and wondered how big it was in its heyday.

We ended our tour at the Acropolis Museum, which was too brief (Click on the link for a brief meandering through the museum).  Again, we were on a time schedule and the place was pretty busy, so I continued snapping photos because I knew they planned a bathroom stop at the end, and I didn't need to go.  I wouldn't lose them again.

For me, it would have been more impactful if I'd gone through the musem first, so that I could appreciate how much is still standing rather than how much is missing, but that's me.  

This model is of the statue of Athena, patron goddess of the city.  It stood inside the Parthenon, here's a brief description*:

"The statue seems to have been over 12 meters tall, nearly 40 feet tall. The parts of her flesh that were visible were made of ivory, and her dress, her armor, and her jewelry were made of gold—some 40 to 44 talents of gold. A talent is approximately 57 to 58 pounds, and so the Athena wore on her body a tremendous sum and was the single greatest financial asset of the city."

There were rooms and rooms of partial statues (they created them without heads, so they could simply place a particular head on top).  I found this model apparatus used to build the Parthenon interesting. Imagine, in 500 BC!

You could easily spend a week in Athens and still not see a fraction. Please don't misunderstand my story - I had a wonderful time on the tour; but since my historical facts and descriptions are lacking, I had to accompany the photos with something.

I'll end for now or I'll never get to the Greek Isles.

Next:  By Zeus, What Music!

* From NOVA: Secrets of the Parthenon.